Real Bali
By: Connie Kwan-Wong
Travel with the Publisher
to Experience the
Photo Credits: CKW LUXE, Visual Bali Studio,
Agus Putu Pranayoga and Kadek Fitri Purnami
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Outfit: Sakdek of G&S Mode
Make up: Ayu Tresnayani; @sarimuabali
Hair: @ayuhairstylist
Location: Kayon resort
In March of 2019, my friend Katya and I traveled to Bali for an amazing two-week holiday. It isn’t cold in Houston in March, but the days are mild and the nights are cool. It was a treat to arrive in Bali, where temperatures at that time of year are around 80 degrees, and feel the rays of the tropical sun warming our skin. The light-weight brightly colored clothing and footwear we packed were perfect for days and nights in the tropics.
Bali is an Indonesian island best known for its lush forests, rugged volcanic mountains, pristine rice paddy fields, and picture-perfect sandy beaches. It has a strong connection with yoga and meditation and a rich culture in the arts. Bali offers something for everyone: amazing shopping, local art and culture, festivals, relaxation, white-water rafting, surfing, tubing, and biking. In Bali, you can choose to chill out, sight see, or get involved in whatever is going on. It’s the place for the perfect vacation.
When planning our trip, I first consulted with Utama of Bali Utama Tour and told him all the places I was interested in visiting. He speaks fluent English and was a wonderful resource offering lots of helpful suggestions. Because of his knowledge and attention to detail, we experienced the real Bali and were treated to many local traditions. He also made each transition in our trip easy for us. The result was a memorable stay. If you are interested in getting the most out of your trip to Bali, I recommend getting in touch with Utama at www.baliutamatour.com.
It was important to us to explore different aspects of Bali. The four locations we chose to stay at provided us with four uniquely different experiences. They were exactly what we were looking for.
![]() Ubud at Night |
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Where We Went
Ubud
Because our interests lay in experiencing Bali at its most authentic, our first visit was to Ubud. Since its discovery, Ubud, which is located in the Balinese uplands, has been thought of as having strong spiritual powers. Its name comes from Ubad, which means medicine, and refers to the healing properties of the large variety of plants in the area. Ubud has become a retreat for travelers looking for tranquility as well as for inspiration from its arts and culture, as it and its surrounding villages are home to a thriving arts and crafts industry. Ubud, itself, contains a treasure trove of galleries displaying rare and priceless works by Balinese masters as well as works by contemporary artists. Stepping into these cultural meccas, which often incorporate stunning architecture and gardens, visitors discover a world of carvings, paintings, textiles, and curios unlike any other.
Ubud is also a haven for fashionistas with almost never-ending shopping opportunities in the village’s daily market as well as in the individually owned shops lining its many streets. You can pick up everything from Bohemian-style clothing, handmade jewelry, and hand-woven wicker bags to homemade local food, healthy cooking ingredients, and traditional souvenirs. All are available at remarkably low prices. There are also some excellent places to eat in Ubud. If you feel like having something casual and healthy, I recommend checking out the Seeds of Life raw vegan restaurant.

Connie at Kayon Resort
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Kayon Resort Breakfast
We stayed at three different resorts while we were in Ubud. The first was the Kayon Resort. Its name means tree of life. This five-star boutique resort is absolutely gorgeous. It was designed with honeymooners, and anyone seeking rest and communing with nature, in mind. For that reason, it is an adults only haven. Perched on a hillside only ten minutes from the center of Ubud, and surrounded by lush tropical forest, Kayon provides a bird’s-eye view of the holy Petanu River. It is as beautiful as it sounds and as close to paradise as any place I’ve ever been. Designed to harmonize with nature, the façade is decorated with Ramayana (a Sanskrit epic) story relief.
We began each morning with yoga, after which, we had breakfast. The resort offers many tantalizing options for the latter. My favorites were the Balinese Breakfast Experience and the Kayon Breakfast. Each of these has various choices, which makes it possible to try something new each day. Some of my favorite selections from the Balinese Breakfast Experience were the jamu kunyit, which includes a health tonic infusion made from rice water, turmeric, lemongrass, lime juice, and honey, and a single soft-boiled free-range egg, and
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Balineses Food
the bubursumsum, which is Balinese rice pudding with brown-sugar sauce and grated coconut. I also loved the loloh kayumanis, a traditional cinnamon-leaf juice, and the fresh fruit platter from the Kayon Breakfast.
The coffee is spectacular here and just the thing with which to enjoy the magnificent view.
I recommend getting a massage at the Serayu Spa, which is part of the resort. The serene setting invites you to cast off the stresses of everyday life and allow yourself to relax fully. With a broad choice of nurturing body and beauty rituals, it’s easy to completely unwind.
I also can’t say enough about the Kepitu Restaurant in the center of the resort. With its 180-degree view of the pool and surrounding vista, it provides a feast for the eyes as well as for the stomach. Its Alang-Alang grass roof adds the perfect ambience. At lunch we ate light healthy salads and fruit. I indulged in lots of fresh fruit while in Bali and especially enjoyed dragon fruit; rambutan; mangoes; jackfruit; passion fruit; papaya; and longan, which is similar to lychee. At dinner, we were treated to a mixture of Western, Asian, and signature Kepitu dishes. Once a week, the Culture Diner program offers an authentic Ubud food and culture experience and is a must do.

Connie and Katya Having Afternoon Tea at Dwaraka The Royal Villas
Our second resort was Dwaraka The Royal Villas, located in the center of Ubud, where we stayed for three days. It was completely different from Kayon. Inspired by the legend of Lord Krishna’s kingdom, Dwaraka Kingdom, the resort’s architecture combines fine Royal Balinese house design with luxurious modern facilities. The concept of the resort is for the visitor to follow Lord Krishna’s life journey. Surrounded by a tropical garden, the ambience here is peaceful and the perfect spot to rest before and after sight seeing.
There are 28 sumptuous suites and villas to choose from, each with stunning views of the Ubud rice field and the garden. They are decorated in exotic detail. Our villa was the Puri Taman Sukawati. It was designed to mirror an original house in size, design, and function and contained a huge courtyard. There was also lots of outdoor space. With three bedrooms, a kitchen, and many amenities, the beautifully decorated villa was a pleasure to come back to, and wake up to, each day. Each of the three bedrooms is a free-standing building with its own elegant bathroom and pretty backyard. One of the three bedrooms is reserved for the owners’ use when they return to Ubud.
Our stay here was unforgettable. As well as the elegant setting we basked in daily, a number of traditional activities were arranged for us by the resort.
Not only did we take part in yoga classes, enjoy Balinese breakfast, have a Balinese massage, and go cycling, we alsogot the chance to immerse ourselves in some of Bali’s customs.
One such was participating in a Balinese offering lesson. During the lesson, we were taught to make Canang Sari, floral spiritual offerings that adorn Balinese temples, streets, home entrances, and any where else the Balinese deem sacred. These beautiful pieces are generally made by women and usually consist of a woven coconut-leaf basket filled with flowers and topped with a stick of incense. Taking part in the ritual of making a Canang Sari was fulfilling and peaceful.
![]() Cycling at Dwaraka the Royal Villas |
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![]() Dancing at Dwaraka The Royal Villas |



Another new experience was taking a Balinese dance lesson. Traditional dance is an important part of Bali’s rich heritage and involves specific movements that have been handed down through the generations. We were thrilled to be taught basic movements and learn their meanings by our instructor. This involved practicing fluid finger movements and graceful steps, which we performed to traditional music.
Something totally different for us was experiencing the beauty and tradition of a royal dinner for two in our villa. The beautiful setting was made even more so with elegant table settings, candles and flower arrangements decorating the floor, and soft lighting. As we ate the delicate fresh offerings, gentle music played. This was one of the loveliest moments of our trip.
We also went rice paddy trekking, which is especially popular in Ubud because the village is situated between rice fields and the forest that lies between the mountain cliffs. This makes the adventure not only interesting and novel, it also allows visitors to experience the beauty of the area while walking through it.

Green Village, the third resort we stayed at, was about 30 minutes from the center of Ubud. It is a magnificent example of sustainable living and housing. Nature’s presence here is palpable. A huge contrast from Dwaraka the Royal Villas, the compound sits on the sacred Ayung River surrounded by forest and is made up of spectacular bamboo houses and villas. They are all beautiful and showcase how bamboo, when combined with elements like brass, copper, and stone, can create aesthetically pleasing organic living spaces. Bamboo was chosen as the building material because of its sustainability and tensile strength.
We literally stayed in a bamboo house in the middle of the jungle. What an experience! Ours was called the Aura house. It was far from rustic, with private chefs preparing nine dishes for us at dinner, a large open-concept living room, and private bedrooms. Beautifully appointed with everything we needed for a comfortable stay, the furniture and accessories were also made from a combination of bamboo and different natural elements. If nature is your cup of tea, I think this experience would be just as special for you as it was for us.
Whether you decide to stay at Green Village or not, I recommend a visit and a tour if you’re in the Ubud area. The brainchild of John Hardy, Green Village was designed for those who want to be close to nature, and it accomplishes that perfectly. The compound is just a short walk from the famous Green School, which designs its curriculum around the principles of an organic permaculture system. Tours must be booked in advance, due to demand, and are half-day walking expeditions. They begin in the communal dining area of the compound. From there, visitors are guided through the bamboo forests, the permaculture garden, and the houses and villas while learning about the ideas behind the concept. Tours can also be extended to include John Hardy Jewelry, the Bamboo Factory, and the various workshops to learn even more.
![]() Enjoying the Bamboos at the Green Village Resort |
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![]() Bamboo House at the Green Village Resort |
![]() Green Village |
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![]() Green Village Breakfast |
![]() Green Village Dinner |
![]() Green Village Private Chefs |
![]() Pool at the Green Village Resort |
I also recommend a tour of the Kul Kul Farm, which is a two-minute walk from the Green School. Run by Maria and Orin, who are passionate about growing food well, the farm utilizes a team of home gardeners, educators, permaculture designers, herbalists, cooks, bamboo builders, and entrepreneurs who create, learn, share, grow food, and build their farm life and business. They also host farm tours, workshops, retreats, and lunches. Their intention when starting the farm was to inspire and empower local residents and visitors to live life connected to nature and tradition. It may sound like we spent all our time in Ubud and vicinity enjoying the benefits of our resorts, but actually, we didn’t. We also got out and experienced a good deal of the marvels of Ubud and its surrounding areas.

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Located in the village of Padantegal, the Monkey Forest is an important spiritual, economic, educational, and conservation center. Most visitors to Bali consider this a must, and I agree. As well as containing 700 monkeys, the forest is home to 186 species of trees. The monkeys are well-behaved for the most part, but some have been known to covet and take sunglasses and other shiny objects. The sanctuary also features three holy temples and a plethora of magnificent religious statues. Several different festivals are celebrated here, as well. Seeing them will depend on the time of year you visit.

Ubud Royal Palace (Puri Saren Agung)
Located in the town center, the palace of the royal family is one of the most famous and notable landmarks in Ubud and an exceptional site to visit. It was built between 1800 and 1823 and features well-preserved Balinese architecture and a lovely garden. As well as being the home of the royal family, the palace is a repository of the arts, dance, and literature. International events take place on its stage and in its meeting halls. There are also nightly cultural performances, for which you can buy a ticket in the afternoon. Paired with the exotic palace background, they are spectacular and shouldn’t be missed. The front section of the palace is open to the public during the day so visitors can walk through and take pictures. There is no entry fee, but if you desire more information you can hire a guide.

Ubud Royal Palace (Puri Saren Agung)
Located in the town center, the palace of the royal family is one of the most famous and notable landmarks in Ubud and an exceptional site to visit. It was built between 1800 and 1823 and features well-preserved Balinese architecture and a lovely garden. As well as being the home of the royal family, the palace is a repository of the arts, dance, and literature. International events take place on its stage and in its meeting halls. There are also nightly cultural performances, for which you can buy a ticket in the afternoon. Paired with the exotic palace background, they are spectacular and shouldn’t be missed. The front section of the palace is open to the public during the day so visitors can walk through and take pictures. There is no entry fee, but if you desire more information you can hire a guide.
![]() Tegenungan Waterfall |
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![]() Tegalallang Rice Terraces |
Tegenungan Waterfall
and the Tegalallang Rice Terraces
Visiting the Tegenungan Waterfalland theTegalallang Rice Terraces, located just outside Ubud, is the perfect day trip. A relatively easy way to make it happen is to hire a driver for the day to take you there, which costs about $50. The spectacular Tegenungan Waterfall is one of the largest on the island. Once again, because of its popularity, it’s best to visit the waterfall, which you can actually swim in, early in the morning before it gets too crowded.
After visiting the falls in the morning, it’s nice to get away from it all and stroll through the nearby Tegalallang Rice Terraces in the afternoon. Originally designed for rice farming in the eighth century, these terraces are famous for their unique irrigation system, which keeps the rice wet year-round. In recent years, they have become more of a tourist destination. For that reason, there are many amenities, like restaurants built right into the terraces, souvenir shops, and rest areas. All can be enjoyed while taking in the beautiful views.


Swing in Wanagiri Hidden Hills
Wanagiri Hidden Hills
One of our day trips was spent visiting Wanagiri Hidden Hills, Bali Twin Lakes, and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple:
Wanagiri Hidden Hills
Located to the north, Wanagiri Hidden Hills, is quickly becoming a popular tourist attraction. Wanagiri itself is a small village high on a tiny mountain ridge that overlooks the serene Bali Twin Lakes. The unique bamboo swings proliferating the area are attracting people in droves who want to get a picture in, or on, one of them. The most popular is the giant bird’s nest. Also popular are the swings that overlook the lakes. Because of the winding road up the mountain to reach your destination, hiring someone to drive you there is a great idea. Relatively unknown a few years ago, Instagram has definitely put this spot on the map.
Bali Twin Lakes
The waterfalls in the Bali Twin Lakes area are amazing. Because they aren’t as well-known as those near Ubud, they aren’t nearly as crowded with tourists. The Tamblingan Recreation Center at the base of Lake Tamblingan, the smaller of the Bali Twin Lakes, is well worth visiting. The lake is also the site of a number of temples, both in it and around it.
![]() The Giant Bird’s Nest in Wanagiri Hidden Hills |
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![]() The Giant Heart in Wanagiri Hidden Hills |

Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
The more famous temple on the larger of the twin lakes is the Ulun Danu BeratanTemple. This stunning Hindu-Buddhist temple was founded in the 17th century and is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the water goddess. The temple’s beauty is enhanced by its location on the shores of Lake Beratan. With the calm reflective lake in front and the towering mountains behind, the effect is truly ethereal. Although the temple is genuinely beautiful at any time of day, the best time to visit is at sunset with the powerful temple in the foreground as the dazzling sun dips into the horizon behind it.

Penglipuran Village
This traditional Balinese village near Bangli City is 2051 feet above sea level and was one of my favorite places to visit. Immaculate and serene, it is untouched by modernization. Richly steeped in culture, its name comes from Pengeling Pura, which means “remembering the ancestors,” conveying the fact that it was created by the original inhabitants to respect their elders. More than in any other village in Bali, its population regularly makes offerings and holds rituals to respect the spirits. Its layout is even adapted from the three mandalas concept of Balinese Hinduism. The architecture is traditional Balinese and utilizes mostly stone, wood, palm, and bamboo. It is kept authentic as a form of respect to the gods and to its ancestors. Just outside the village is an astounding 45-hectare sacred bamboo forest, within which, are four modest temples.

Tirta Empul Temple
Located in the village of Tampaksiring, the Tirta Empul Temple has attracted Balinese worshippers for over 1,000 years. The structure is open to the public, who can choose to take part in the purification ritual of bathing in the water of its holy spring. If you choose not to bathe, the temple is still a wonderful place to explore and offers authentic insight into the Balinese culture. It is dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu god of water, and is considered to be one of the holiest temples on the island.

Jatiluwih Rice Terraces
Recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site, the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces cover over 600 hectares of rice fields following the hillside topography of the Batukaru mountains. They are just beautiful, and are a hue of green that may not exist anywhere else in the world. Unspoiled by tourists, this is a wonderful spot in which to walk and commune with nature.
Tanah Lot Temple
Tanah Lot means land in the sea, which is the perfect description for a temple located in the water. It also describes the island of Bali to a T. One of the most iconic of Bali’s Hindu temples, the Tanah Lot Temple looks as if it is floating on the water when the tide is in. The sunset here is remarkable also.



Bali Swing
Bali Swing is similar to a theme park and features a wide variety of unique swings to swing on over a number of exotic jungle locations.About 20 minutes outside of Ubud, it’s easy to get to by car or taxi. Admission is open from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. daily. It’s best to get there right when the doors open; waiting lines for the swings will become much longer after 9 a.m. Though swings are the main attraction, boat tours and various water sports are also available. The swings are impressive and make for fabulous photos.

Taman Permata Hati
While we were in Ubud, we had the pleasure of visiting Taman Permata Hati, an after-school activity center for underprivileged children. Some have lost a parent or other family member. We came prepared with lots of American snacks for the kids, which they loved. It was wonderful to meet them and be part of their lives, even for a short time. Opportunities for volunteers are many at the center, including teaching English, music, dance, art, cooking, and computer skills.
After our incredible time in Ubud and environs, we travelled to Sanur on the southeast coast.
![]() Karmagali Bungalow Lounge | ![]() Karmagali Fresh Salad | ![]() Karmagali Breakfast |
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![]() Karmagali Garden and Pool | ![]() Ngrupuk parade with Ogoh-ogoh | ![]() |