Real Bali
By: Connie Kwan-Wong
Travel with the Publisher
to Experience the
Photo Credits: CKW LUXE, Visual Bali Studio,
Agus Putu Pranayoga and Kadek Fitri Purnami
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Outfit: Sakdek of G&S Mode
Make up: Ayu Tresnayani; @sarimuabali
Hair: @ayuhairstylist
Location: Kayon resort
In March of 2019, my friend Katya and I traveled to Bali for an amazing two-week holiday. It isn’t cold in Houston in March, but the days are mild and the nights are cool. It was a treat to arrive in Bali, where temperatures at that time of year are around 80 degrees, and feel the rays of the tropical sun warming our skin. The light-weight brightly colored clothing and footwear we packed were perfect for days and nights in the tropics.
Bali is an Indonesian island best known for its lush forests, rugged volcanic mountains, pristine rice paddy fields, and picture-perfect sandy beaches. It has a strong connection with yoga and meditation and a rich culture in the arts. Bali offers something for everyone: amazing shopping, local art and culture, festivals, relaxation, white-water rafting, surfing, tubing, and biking. In Bali, you can choose to chill out, sight see, or get involved in whatever is going on. It’s the place for the perfect vacation.
When planning our trip, I first consulted with Utama of Bali Utama Tour and told him all the places I was interested in visiting. He speaks fluent English and was a wonderful resource offering lots of helpful suggestions. Because of his knowledge and attention to detail, we experienced the real Bali and were treated to many local traditions. He also made each transition in our trip easy for us. The result was a memorable stay. If you are interested in getting the most out of your trip to Bali, I recommend getting in touch with Utama at www.baliutamatour.com.
It was important to us to explore different aspects of Bali. The four locations we chose to stay at provided us with four uniquely different experiences. They were exactly what we were looking for.
Where We Went
Ubud
Because our interests lay in experiencing Bali at its most authentic, our first visit was to Ubud. Since its discovery, Ubud, which is located in the Balinese uplands, has been thought of as having strong spiritual powers. Its name comes from Ubad, which means medicine, and refers to the healing properties of the large variety of plants in the area. Ubud has become a retreat for travelers looking for tranquility as well as for inspiration from its arts and culture, as it and its surrounding villages are home to a thriving arts and crafts industry. Ubud, itself, contains a treasure trove of galleries displaying rare and priceless works by Balinese masters as well as works by contemporary artists. Stepping into these cultural meccas, which often incorporate stunning architecture and gardens, visitors discover a world of carvings, paintings, textiles, and curios unlike any other.
Ubud is also a haven for fashionistas with almost never-ending shopping opportunities in the village’s daily market as well as in the individually owned shops lining its many streets. You can pick up everything from Bohemian-style clothing, handmade jewelry, and hand-woven wicker bags to homemade local food, healthy cooking ingredients, and traditional souvenirs. All are available at remarkably low prices. There are also some excellent places to eat in Ubud. If you feel like having something casual and healthy, I recommend checking out the Seeds of Life raw vegan restaurant.
Connie at Kayon Resort
Kayon Resort Breakfast
We stayed at three different resorts while we were in Ubud. The first was the Kayon Resort. Its name means tree of life. This five-star boutique resort is absolutely gorgeous. It was designed with honeymooners, and anyone seeking rest and communing with nature, in mind. For that reason, it is an adults only haven. Perched on a hillside only ten minutes from the center of Ubud, and surrounded by lush tropical forest, Kayon provides a bird’s-eye view of the holy Petanu River. It is as beautiful as it sounds and as close to paradise as any place I’ve ever been. Designed to harmonize with nature, the façade is decorated with Ramayana (a Sanskrit epic) story relief.
We began each morning with yoga, after which, we had breakfast. The resort offers many tantalizing options for the latter. My favorites were the Balinese Breakfast Experience and the Kayon Breakfast. Each of these has various choices, which makes it possible to try something new each day. Some of my favorite selections from the Balinese Breakfast Experience were the jamu kunyit, which includes a health tonic infusion made from rice water, turmeric, lemongrass, lime juice, and honey, and a single soft-boiled free-range egg, and
Balineses Food
the bubursumsum, which is Balinese rice pudding with brown-sugar sauce and grated coconut. I also loved the loloh kayumanis, a traditional cinnamon-leaf juice, and the fresh fruit platter from the Kayon Breakfast.
The coffee is spectacular here and just the thing with which to enjoy the magnificent view.
I recommend getting a massage at the Serayu Spa, which is part of the resort. The serene setting invites you to cast off the stresses of everyday life and allow yourself to relax fully. With a broad choice of nurturing body and beauty rituals, it’s easy to completely unwind.
I also can’t say enough about the Kepitu Restaurant in the center of the resort. With its 180-degree view of the pool and surrounding vista, it provides a feast for the eyes as well as for the stomach. Its Alang-Alang grass roof adds the perfect ambience. At lunch we ate light healthy salads and fruit. I indulged in lots of fresh fruit while in Bali and especially enjoyed dragon fruit; rambutan; mangoes; jackfruit; passion fruit; papaya; and longan, which is similar to lychee. At dinner, we were treated to a mixture of Western, Asian, and signature Kepitu dishes. Once a week, the Culture Diner program offers an authentic Ubud food and culture experience and is a must do.
Connie and Katya Having Afternoon Tea at Dwaraka The Royal Villas
Our second resort was Dwaraka The Royal Villas, located in the center of Ubud, where we stayed for three days. It was completely different from Kayon. Inspired by the legend of Lord Krishna’s kingdom, Dwaraka Kingdom, the resort’s architecture combines fine Royal Balinese house design with luxurious modern facilities. The concept of the resort is for the visitor to follow Lord Krishna’s life journey. Surrounded by a tropical garden, the ambience here is peaceful and the perfect spot to rest before and after sight seeing.
There are 28 sumptuous suites and villas to choose from, each with stunning views of the Ubud rice field and the garden. They are decorated in exotic detail. Our villa was the Puri Taman Sukawati. It was designed to mirror an original house in size, design, and function and contained a huge courtyard. There was also lots of outdoor space. With three bedrooms, a kitchen, and many amenities, the beautifully decorated villa was a pleasure to come back to, and wake up to, each day. Each of the three bedrooms is a free-standing building with its own elegant bathroom and pretty backyard. One of the three bedrooms is reserved for the owners’ use when they return to Ubud.
Our stay here was unforgettable. As well as the elegant setting we basked in daily, a number of traditional activities were arranged for us by the resort.
Not only did we take part in yoga classes, enjoy Balinese breakfast, have a Balinese massage, and go cycling, we alsogot the chance to immerse ourselves in some of Bali’s customs.
One such was participating in a Balinese offering lesson. During the lesson, we were taught to make Canang Sari, floral spiritual offerings that adorn Balinese temples, streets, home entrances, and any where else the Balinese deem sacred. These beautiful pieces are generally made by women and usually consist of a woven coconut-leaf basket filled with flowers and topped with a stick of incense. Taking part in the ritual of making a Canang Sari was fulfilling and peaceful.
Another new experience was taking a Balinese dance lesson. Traditional dance is an important part of Bali’s rich heritage and involves specific movements that have been handed down through the generations. We were thrilled to be taught basic movements and learn their meanings by our instructor. This involved practicing fluid finger movements and graceful steps, which we performed to traditional music.
Something totally different for us was experiencing the beauty and tradition of a royal dinner for two in our villa. The beautiful setting was made even more so with elegant table settings, candles and flower arrangements decorating the floor, and soft lighting. As we ate the delicate fresh offerings, gentle music played. This was one of the loveliest moments of our trip.
We also went rice paddy trekking, which is especially popular in Ubud because the village is situated between rice fields and the forest that lies between the mountain cliffs. This makes the adventure not only interesting and novel, it also allows visitors to experience the beauty of the area while walking through it.
Green Village, the third resort we stayed at, was about 30 minutes from the center of Ubud. It is a magnificent example of sustainable living and housing. Nature’s presence here is palpable. A huge contrast from Dwaraka the Royal Villas, the compound sits on the sacred Ayung River surrounded by forest and is made up of spectacular bamboo houses and villas. They are all beautiful and showcase how bamboo, when combined with elements like brass, copper, and stone, can create aesthetically pleasing organic living spaces. Bamboo was chosen as the building material because of its sustainability and tensile strength.
We literally stayed in a bamboo house in the middle of the jungle. What an experience! Ours was called the Aura house. It was far from rustic, with private chefs preparing nine dishes for us at dinner, a large open-concept living room, and private bedrooms. Beautifully appointed with everything we needed for a comfortable stay, the furniture and accessories were also made from a combination of bamboo and different natural elements. If nature is your cup of tea, I think this experience would be just as special for you as it was for us.
Whether you decide to stay at Green Village or not, I recommend a visit and a tour if you’re in the Ubud area. The brainchild of John Hardy, Green Village was designed for those who want to be close to nature, and it accomplishes that perfectly. The compound is just a short walk from the famous Green School, which designs its curriculum around the principles of an organic permaculture system. Tours must be booked in advance, due to demand, and are half-day walking expeditions. They begin in the communal dining area of the compound. From there, visitors are guided through the bamboo forests, the permaculture garden, and the houses and villas while learning about the ideas behind the concept. Tours can also be extended to include John Hardy Jewelry, the Bamboo Factory, and the various workshops to learn even more.
I also recommend a tour of the Kul Kul Farm, which is a two-minute walk from the Green School. Run by Maria and Orin, who are passionate about growing food well, the farm utilizes a team of home gardeners, educators, permaculture designers, herbalists, cooks, bamboo builders, and entrepreneurs who create, learn, share, grow food, and build their farm life and business. They also host farm tours, workshops, retreats, and lunches. Their intention when starting the farm was to inspire and empower local residents and visitors to live life connected to nature and tradition. It may sound like we spent all our time in Ubud and vicinity enjoying the benefits of our resorts, but actually, we didn’t. We also got out and experienced a good deal of the marvels of Ubud and its surrounding areas.
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Located in the village of Padantegal, the Monkey Forest is an important spiritual, economic, educational, and conservation center. Most visitors to Bali consider this a must, and I agree. As well as containing 700 monkeys, the forest is home to 186 species of trees. The monkeys are well-behaved for the most part, but some have been known to covet and take sunglasses and other shiny objects. The sanctuary also features three holy temples and a plethora of magnificent religious statues. Several different festivals are celebrated here, as well. Seeing them will depend on the time of year you visit.
Ubud Royal Palace (Puri Saren Agung)
Located in the town center, the palace of the royal family is one of the most famous and notable landmarks in Ubud and an exceptional site to visit. It was built between 1800 and 1823 and features well-preserved Balinese architecture and a lovely garden. As well as being the home of the royal family, the palace is a repository of the arts, dance, and literature. International events take place on its stage and in its meeting halls. There are also nightly cultural performances, for which you can buy a ticket in the afternoon. Paired with the exotic palace background, they are spectacular and shouldn’t be missed. The front section of the palace is open to the public during the day so visitors can walk through and take pictures. There is no entry fee, but if you desire more information you can hire a guide.
Ubud Royal Palace (Puri Saren Agung)
Located in the town center, the palace of the royal family is one of the most famous and notable landmarks in Ubud and an exceptional site to visit. It was built between 1800 and 1823 and features well-preserved Balinese architecture and a lovely garden. As well as being the home of the royal family, the palace is a repository of the arts, dance, and literature. International events take place on its stage and in its meeting halls. There are also nightly cultural performances, for which you can buy a ticket in the afternoon. Paired with the exotic palace background, they are spectacular and shouldn’t be missed. The front section of the palace is open to the public during the day so visitors can walk through and take pictures. There is no entry fee, but if you desire more information you can hire a guide.
Tegenungan Waterfall
and the Tegalallang Rice Terraces
Visiting the Tegenungan Waterfalland theTegalallang Rice Terraces, located just outside Ubud, is the perfect day trip. A relatively easy way to make it happen is to hire a driver for the day to take you there, which costs about $50. The spectacular Tegenungan Waterfall is one of the largest on the island. Once again, because of its popularity, it’s best to visit the waterfall, which you can actually swim in, early in the morning before it gets too crowded.
After visiting the falls in the morning, it’s nice to get away from it all and stroll through the nearby Tegalallang Rice Terraces in the afternoon. Originally designed for rice farming in the eighth century, these terraces are famous for their unique irrigation system, which keeps the rice wet year-round. In recent years, they have become more of a tourist destination. For that reason, there are many amenities, like restaurants built right into the terraces, souvenir shops, and rest areas. All can be enjoyed while taking in the beautiful views.
Swing in Wanagiri Hidden Hills
Wanagiri Hidden Hills
One of our day trips was spent visiting Wanagiri Hidden Hills, Bali Twin Lakes, and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple:
Wanagiri Hidden Hills
Located to the north, Wanagiri Hidden Hills, is quickly becoming a popular tourist attraction. Wanagiri itself is a small village high on a tiny mountain ridge that overlooks the serene Bali Twin Lakes. The unique bamboo swings proliferating the area are attracting people in droves who want to get a picture in, or on, one of them. The most popular is the giant bird’s nest. Also popular are the swings that overlook the lakes. Because of the winding road up the mountain to reach your destination, hiring someone to drive you there is a great idea. Relatively unknown a few years ago, Instagram has definitely put this spot on the map.
Bali Twin Lakes
The waterfalls in the Bali Twin Lakes area are amazing. Because they aren’t as well-known as those near Ubud, they aren’t nearly as crowded with tourists. The Tamblingan Recreation Center at the base of Lake Tamblingan, the smaller of the Bali Twin Lakes, is well worth visiting. The lake is also the site of a number of temples, both in it and around it.
Ulun Danu Beratan Temple
The more famous temple on the larger of the twin lakes is the Ulun Danu BeratanTemple. This stunning Hindu-Buddhist temple was founded in the 17th century and is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the water goddess. The temple’s beauty is enhanced by its location on the shores of Lake Beratan. With the calm reflective lake in front and the towering mountains behind, the effect is truly ethereal. Although the temple is genuinely beautiful at any time of day, the best time to visit is at sunset with the powerful temple in the foreground as the dazzling sun dips into the horizon behind it.
Penglipuran Village
This traditional Balinese village near Bangli City is 2051 feet above sea level and was one of my favorite places to visit. Immaculate and serene, it is untouched by modernization. Richly steeped in culture, its name comes from Pengeling Pura, which means “remembering the ancestors,” conveying the fact that it was created by the original inhabitants to respect their elders. More than in any other village in Bali, its population regularly makes offerings and holds rituals to respect the spirits. Its layout is even adapted from the three mandalas concept of Balinese Hinduism. The architecture is traditional Balinese and utilizes mostly stone, wood, palm, and bamboo. It is kept authentic as a form of respect to the gods and to its ancestors. Just outside the village is an astounding 45-hectare sacred bamboo forest, within which, are four modest temples.
Tirta Empul Temple
Located in the village of Tampaksiring, the Tirta Empul Temple has attracted Balinese worshippers for over 1,000 years. The structure is open to the public, who can choose to take part in the purification ritual of bathing in the water of its holy spring. If you choose not to bathe, the temple is still a wonderful place to explore and offers authentic insight into the Balinese culture. It is dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu god of water, and is considered to be one of the holiest temples on the island.
Jatiluwih Rice Terraces
Recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage site, the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces cover over 600 hectares of rice fields following the hillside topography of the Batukaru mountains. They are just beautiful, and are a hue of green that may not exist anywhere else in the world. Unspoiled by tourists, this is a wonderful spot in which to walk and commune with nature.
Tanah Lot Temple
Tanah Lot means land in the sea, which is the perfect description for a temple located in the water. It also describes the island of Bali to a T. One of the most iconic of Bali’s Hindu temples, the Tanah Lot Temple looks as if it is floating on the water when the tide is in. The sunset here is remarkable also.
Bali Swing
Bali Swing is similar to a theme park and features a wide variety of unique swings to swing on over a number of exotic jungle locations.About 20 minutes outside of Ubud, it’s easy to get to by car or taxi. Admission is open from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. daily. It’s best to get there right when the doors open; waiting lines for the swings will become much longer after 9 a.m. Though swings are the main attraction, boat tours and various water sports are also available. The swings are impressive and make for fabulous photos.
Taman Permata Hati
While we were in Ubud, we had the pleasure of visiting Taman Permata Hati, an after-school activity center for underprivileged children. Some have lost a parent or other family member. We came prepared with lots of American snacks for the kids, which they loved. It was wonderful to meet them and be part of their lives, even for a short time. Opportunities for volunteers are many at the center, including teaching English, music, dance, art, cooking, and computer skills.
After our incredible time in Ubud and environs, we travelled to Sanur on the southeast coast.
Sanur
This quaint seaside town was the perfect place to continue our holiday and spend time near the beach. You won’t find any surfers in Sanur, because there is no surf, just calm azure water. If you’re looking for child-friendly beaches with soft warm sand, this is the place for you. Even though you may want to stay at the beach all day, there are lots of other attractions to tempt you.
Our home in Sanur was Karmagali Boutique Suites, a small luxury boutique hotel in the heart of town. Even though it’s in a residential area, the hotel is on the beach and close to stores and restaurants. We stayed in Deluxe Bungalow 2 where our bedrooms were separated by a lounge and large dining area that opened onto a terrace. I loved it. It made me feel like we were in our own comfortable little oasis. The owners, Frederic and Magali, were always helpful and friendly ensuring we received attentive personal service.
The overall philosophy of the resort is in keeping with the boutique hotel and luxury guest house concept of limiting the number of rooms, using refined decoration, providing personal service, and paying attention to details, all in a sustainable manner. The effect for guests is one of comfort and hominess. Karmagali approaches all aspects of its services with an ecological mindset, including the cleaners it uses.
Natural body care products are provided to guests in their rooms and used in the intimate spa room.
The Balinese massage here is excellent and is offered in three different packages: Pureness, which includes a body scrub; Essential, which includes a facial massage; and Harmony, which includes both plus a manicure and pedicure.
One of the many things I loved about the hotel was its food philosophy. Careful attention is paid to the quality and
cleanliness of its kitchen. All the dishes are prepared and processed on-site with fresh and/or organic ingredients using the slow food concept, which is defined by these three interconnected principles: good, clean, and fair. The proof of the success of this philosophy is in the four different kinds of delicious breakfasts served, the incredible coffee, and the Mediterranean and Indonesian offerings at dinner. At breakfast, I especially enjoyed the French option, from which you could choose light and fluffy crêpes served with superb homemade jam.
While we were in Sanur, we celebrated Nyepi, the mid-point of the Balinese New Year 6-day celebration, which is dedicated to complete silence. The main purpose of Nyepi is to pray for the purification of humanity, the earth, and the universe. Leading up to it, locals participate in the Ngrupuk parade and carry ogoh-ogoh, which are elaborate statues, through the streets. It is just spectacular. The day before Nyepi, the shops begin to close early, hotels cover their windows, and the lights are turned off in Balinese homes. Roads are devoid of cars, bikes of all kinds, and people. The day itself lasts from 6 a.m. until the following day at 6 a.m. In 2019, when we visited, the celebration date was Thursday, March 7 to Friday, March 8. During the entire 24-hour period, we stayed in our hotel. It was lovely and peaceful. We read, relaxed, swam, and had spa service. Most businesses begin to open up again the following day at around noon, though some may stay closed for days. If you are in Bali during this special day, don’t plan to travel or take part in any outdoor activities. Witnessing Nyepi was a unique experience and one I was pleased to be part of.
We visited another seaside town not far from Sanur called Jimbaran.
Jimbaran
Jimbaran offers everything from beaches to limestone cliffs. It is also known for its seafood restaurants running the length of the beaches. Each one serves up the best catch of the day. You just order what looks good and pay by the gram. You can actually dine here overlooking the water with your toes in the sand. We ate at the Ganesha Café, which was right on the beach, and enjoyed a delicious fresh seafood meal prepared in the traditional way.
We also visited the Uluwatu Temple in Uluwatu and Padang Padang Beach in Pecatu.
Uluwatu
Uluwatu Temple
Situated on top of a steep cliff above the Indian Ocean, Uluwatu Temple is one of the six key temples considered to be Bali’s spiritual pillars and dates back to the 10th century. Like Tanah Lot Temple and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, Uluwatu Temple experiences glorious sunsets. The temple is surrounded by a small forest inhabited by hundreds of monkeys. Nearby is an amphitheatre where daily performances of the traditional kecak dance are held. This Balinese artistic masterpiece is a form of dance and musical drama. Because the performance is held in the open air at sunset, usually on a cliff above the sea, this is an excellent location to witness the art form. Beginning at dusk, the performance continues as it gets dark. Bamboo torches provide the only light. It was quite a riveting experience.
Pecatu
Padang Padang Beach
I fell in love with this beach! As I mentioned earlier, Bali is home to some of the most exquisite beaches in the world, and this is definitely one of them. Located in Uluwatu, Padang Padang Beach is famous for its consistent surf, and is adored by surfers. Although busy, it’s well worth a visit. Access to the golden beach is by a steep staircase where monkeys like to hang out. Once you’re strolling along the shore, you’ll be delighted by the variety of stalls selling colorful sarongs and plaited friendship bracelets. You’ll also see lots of people hiring out surfboards and selling fresh coconuts, cold drinks, and freshly caught seafood. There’s no other experience like it.
After leaving Sanur, we travelled to Seminyak, where we spent our last evening in Bali.
Seminyak
Seminyak is Bali’s most sophisticated and upscale resort area. People are attracted to it because of its pristine beaches and chilling vibe. It’s much more laid back than Ubud in that there aren’t as many places to sightsee. However, the boutique shopping is at its most glamorous here, and it can’t be outdone for its fine dining. We ate at Sisterfields Café, the foundation venue for the Sisterfields hospitality and lifestyle brand based in Bali. It’s a favorite spot for locals, visitors, and foodies and features high quality coffee and a wide variety of cakes, pastries, smoothies, and juices. It represents the café culture of Australia, and brings the love of good food to Bali.
While in Seminyak, we stayed at Uma Sapna, a contemporary art-inspired complex of 22 villas in the heart of town close to restaurants, boutiques, and the vibrant nightlife. The villas are located at a bit of a distance from one another to allow for privacy. The level of service is high. Guests can enjoy a massage in one of the three spa-treatment rooms or in the privacy of their own room. Private dining is also available. It was the perfect spot for our last Balinese home-away-from-home and reflected all the good experiences we had in Bali. I don’t think there was a moment when either of us felt let down by the island.
Bali truly is an island paradise and perfect for taking a break and getting away from things. It is also one of those incredible places where art, culture, and nature come together in an uplifting manner almost everywhere you go. I recommend really getting your feet wet if you go to Bali by immersing yourself in its local traditions, taking part in its cultural events, and giving yourself the gift of diversity in the places you visit. It’s like no other experience you’ll have anywhere else.
What I Advise
I highly recommend visiting the Tiara Gatzu supermarket in Seminyak and the Delta Dewata supermarket in Ubud. In both you will find authentic spices, ginger coffee, sweets, snacks, and other delicacies the Balinese enjoy. These exotic treats make wonderful gifts to bring home with you.
I suggest you try the Krishna Oleh stores, which are all over Bali, if you’re looking for souvenirs and clothing. The prices are set very low, and there is no bargaining.
If you want to bargain, I recommend shopping at the Sukawati market or the Ubud market. There are many treasures to be found in both.
If you want to have professional photos taken while you’re in Bali, I recommend Visual Bali studio. We used them for a photo shoot, and they were excellent. Our photographers were Agus Putu Pranayoga and Kadek Fitri Purnami. They were professional, talented, and wonderful to work with. During the shoot I wore beautiful Balinese outfits by Sakdek of G&S Mode. One was a traditional wedding dress. My hair and makeup were done by Ayu Tresna. I recommend both for clothing and makeup if you want beautiful photos. The whole experience was unforgettable.
Final Thoughts
Our Bali vacation was just as we imagined it would be. We wanted to experience all of the island’s moods, its culture, and its diversity. With careful planning, the assistance of a knowledgeable travel guide, and our choice of four distinct resorts, we accomplished that. I plan to return to Bali at the end of 2020. This time I’m going to visit Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan. Both islands are famous for their magnificent snorkeling and scuba diving destinations. I’ll also be returning to Karmagali Boutique Suites in Sanur and visiting the children at Taman Permata Hati in Ubud. I can hardly wait.